We departed Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego National Park for the high peaks of the Andes, but had a few one-night stops along the way. But before leaving Tierra del Fuego, here’s one last shot of the Martial Mountains outside of Tierra del Fuego to burn into our (and your) memory how beautiful the area is:
Our first stop was our first and only visit to the Atlantic Ocean at Cabo San Pablo (see E on map below):
Cabo San Pablo is a small coastal community – if you can call it that, since there are only ~6 beach shacks strung out along about 1 km of coastline – on the southeast coast of Tierra del Fuego (see map above). This is a very remote part of Tierra del Fuego. We didn’t see a single car for the entire hour drive out to Cabo San Pablo from the main highway. Cape San Pablo is a small isolated mountain that stands out from the coast forming small bays on either side. Atop the Cape is a lighthouse dating back to 1945 that is no longer functional since it nearly collapsed during an earthquake and is just a skeleton today. Here’s what it looks like hiking to the “lighthouse” and the leaning lighthouse itself:
The shallow bay to the south of the Cape hosts a huge shipwreck, the “Desdemona“. This was a German cargo ship, carrying bags of cement of all things, up the coast when it ran into mechanical problems, caught on fire, and was abandoned just offshore in 1985. Its metal hulk stands just offshore from our campsite as a stark reminder of how dangerous the waters around the bottom of South American can be, even to modern ships. Here she is:
Our campsite was a funky/quirky campsite on a bluff overlooking the wreck of the Desdemona. We had great seaside viewing from our campsite, but the highlight of our stay was the homemade seafood empanadas made by the host – delicious!
OK, we are off up the coast to truly wild campsite on the southern side of the Strait of Magellan on our way north to the Andes. See you along the way.
It looks like you guys have the entire place to yourselves.
Again, nice pictures and overview of your trip. looks cold though?
I’m just now seeing your blog and getting caught up on your adventures! Beautiful country.
I don’t know if you’re familiar with the book “two years before the mast” written in the 1830s by the author Dana. He was a Harvard graduate, who wanted to explore the world, boarded a merchant ship, setting sail for the coast of California. Very well written account of life aboard a schooner in the 1800s with great naturalist observations along the coast of South America and coast of California-before the gold Rush and population explosion. In any case, there’s a great account of his time in the area where you are now. Kind of like Shackleton‘s “endurance” account in Antarctica but 80 years earlier.
Great to see you’re having a wonderful trip. Look forward to your next entry!
Rick Romano
Three season wardrobe for this trip?