Regretfully, we left the Palmwag Concession and our delightful Elephant Song campsite and private lion encounter to head all the way north within Namibia, first for a one-night stand at the Kaoko Mopane lodge and campsite outside of Opuwo (the commercial and population center of Kaokoland, with a population of around 12k), then on to Epupa Falls on the Kunene River and Angola border, and finally east upriver to a campsite just short of the border post town of Ruacana.

Not much to report on Opuwo other than to say it was a nice place to resupply with food and fuel – actually, the only place – before heading up to the Kunene River on the Angola border. We found a decent lodge and campground for the night, but the only thing worth reporting was the clever use of recycled materials in the lodge, restaurant, and gardens. Here’s one example of what to do with your vehicle when it has died of old age:

We left Opuwo and drove north through more mountains, valleys and plains covered with, you guessed it, Mopane woodland, the ubiquitous tree of this region, and almost no people. We continue to be in awe of how extensive the Mopane woodlands are that seem to stretch across mountains and valleys for endless distances. On the human population side, I suppose it is not too surprising that there appear to be almost no humans throughout most of this vast landscape given the aridity and minimal productivity of these lands. Every so often, we will come across a cluster of a few to a dozen huts and natives living a subsistence lifestyle, mostly by raising goats and/or cattles, but otherwise the landscape is rather void of humans. Here’s a few pics to give you a taste:





After 4 hours or so of driving, we eventually made it to our destination at Epupa Falls on the Kunene River and Angola border. The Falls were spectacular in many ways, but most notably by the way in which the water flowed through more than 30 paths/channels and then over falls and cascades into the gorge below. The Falls may not be the largest in terms of water volume, width, or height of the drop, but they certainly are in the running for having the most character. Pictures, of course, don’t quite capture the quality of the Falls, but here’s a few anyways to give you an idea of the marvel we beheld:




But to really see the breadth and character of the Falls, you need to watch this 2 minute video, which better captures, but only partially, the magnificenc of the Falls:
Epupa Falls video (2 mins)
We spent two nights at Epupa Falls. Our campsite was right next to the river and just above the Falls, close to the spray and such that we heard the constant sound of the Falls, which made for nice backing music for my native American flute. Our site was not very rustic, as we were situated right next to the lodge owner’s house and close to the restaurant bar, but the proximity to the Falls compensated, as did the sublime sunsets and some of the campsite visitors. Check it out:







We did a four hour morning nature walk with a local guide along a beautiful stretch of the river upstream from our campsite.


We saw lots of birds, including a couple of new species for me, but what was most interesting to us was some of the insights we gained into the local Himba culture. Our guide was half Portuguese, half Himba, reflecting the cultural reality that political boundaries, including international ones such as the one along the Kunene River, don’t mean that much to the locals living a subsistence lifestyle.

We met a few local women and their children out foraging for Makalani palm tree seeds along the river floodplain and a deeper appreciation for the immensely difficult life they lead just trying to stay fed. Despite these hardships, though, the babies still look beautiful:


One of the more interesting factoids about the local Himba culture is their fondness for Palm wine. Why should we be surprised? All human cultures throughout time have found a way to produce alcoholic beverages. In this case, they tap the palm tree and drain the sweet sap, often killing the tree after the first tapping but at other times after several taps, and then add some Mopane tree bark as a fermenting agent and let it ferment for some unspecified amount of time. The palm trees are actually protected by law, but that does little good in the remote regions of the country, and thus we saw lots to tapped and dying or dead palms. Here’s a tree with a series of taps:

Our last night on the Kunene River was spent about 150 km upriver from Epupa Falls near the border town of Ruacana. The drive involved lots of ups and down, across dry washes and past numerous clusters of huts, mostly along the Kunene River floodplain, where the natives herded goats and cattle and grew maize. It was a great drive except for the fact that every child under about 15, when they heard our engine coming, ran out to the roadside to beg for handouts. Some of them had no clothes on. Heartbreaking to see all these kids so desperate for handouts and to have to pass them by because you quickly realize that it is impossible to stop for all the kids or you wouldn’t get very far – argh!. This kaoland region is apparently the poorest section of the country and the first-hand evidence surely supports that.


We did a one-night stand at a somewhat random campsite called Tjonkuvy Otjiruwo (try to say that one fast) overlooking the Kunene River just below the big Ruacana hydroelectric dam. Nothing to write home about, but I am going to do so anyways, other than to say we had the campground to ourselves and would have enjoyed it more if it weren’t for the troublesome Mopane flies – think black flies that like to get in your eyes, ears and nose.

Next stop, southward en route to Etosha National Park and some real wildlife observations! See you there.
New Species:
- Cinnamon-breasted bunting
- Carp’s tit
- Violet wood-hoopoe