June 8-9: Lake Baringo and Samatian Island

First destination out of Nairobi, Lake Baringo and Samatian Island, located in the great rift valley about 170 miles north of Nairobi.

Our drive to Lake Baringo was mostly uneventful, other than dealing with the crazy traffic and lunatic drivers, and the dense fog in the central highlands before decending off the escarpment into the Rift Valley. The only other two things of note was crossing the equator to the northern hemisphere and encountering a herd of roadside camels:

Lake Baringo is one of the many rift valley lakes, similar in many respects to Lake Bogaria that I visited last year (recall the flamingo spectacle) and Lake Nakuru (recall the many wildlife sightings and the leapard encounter made unpleasant because of the rude safari drivers and guides). Lake Baringo is the northern most of the Kenyan Rift Valley lakes and is rather unique in being one of only two freshwater rift valley lakes – the others, such as Bogaria and Nakura, are saline and alkaline. The lake sits in the valley between the Tugen Hills to the west and the striking Laikipia Escarpment to the east, proving a stunning backdrop for both sunrises and sunsets across the lake (see photos below). The lake has been designated a RAMSAR site indicating its international significance as a wetland.

The local communities depend heavily on the lake as a commercial fishery. Historically, the endemic Nile tilapia was the main haul, but this species has declined in recent years and has been replace by the marbled lungfish, which was introduced to the lake in 1974 and which now provides the majority of fish from the lake.

The lake has several small islands, including the exclusive and private Samatian Island, where we are lodging. This tiny island is located just north of the largest island, Ol Kokwe Island, which is an extinct volcanic center that has several hot springs and fumaroles and hosts a resident Maasai population of around 400.

Kenya is extraordinary in the number of community owned and run conservancies, and as guests to Samatian Island we are contributing through conservancy fees to the Ruko Community Conservancy on the mainland. Interestingly, the Ruko conservancy was formed as a way for two warring communities to come together in peace for the interest of the environment and the wildlife in the area, particularly the Rothschild’s (Baringo) giraffe, and as an economic development strategy.

Our visit to Samatian island involved a short boat ride out to the island and was enjoyed by all as it was getting quite hot and uncomfortable sitting on the mainland shore. Our group including the McGees plus 4 teacher friends of Mark and Kirsten:

The island camp itself was quite comfortable and relaxing. The accommodation was incredible. Our banda was perched overlooking the lake and sunrise (see photos below).

There was a large lounge and eating area overlooking the lake as well, and a pool to cool off in during the mid-afternoon heat:

We booked a self-catered visit, so we brought our own food and did our own cooking in the kitchen, but we had several lodge staff as helpers. Nancy, Caitlin and I had duties for the first night dinner and we made tofu pot pied (Phil, aren’t you glad you didn’t come?) with homemade applesauce and brownies for dessert. Not the best rendition of my tofu pot pie given the ingredients available, but it sufficed.

Nancy, Caitlin and I also went on a 2.5 hour early morning birding boat ride around the islands which produced lots of birds, including a couple new species, and observations of the local Maasai community on the large island.

OK, we are off to Mujie Conservancy in the morning, but I will leave you with a composite video of our Samatain Island visit. Note, I didn’t do any narration this time (sorry) or put backing mustic to it, but I hope enjoy nonetheless:

Composite video of Samatain Island visit (~4 min)