June 16-17: On to Khwai River

Our last stop in Moremi Game Reserve was Khwai River. Our campsite at Khwai was situated just across the river from the village of Khwai, which is a small community – I am guessing on the order of a couple hundred people – that administers the Khwai Community Trust. The Trust is a community-run entity that manages a large tract of land between the Moremi Game Reserve and Chobe National Park. The Trust has a few luxury safari lodges (but I suspect these are owned by outsiders, so most of the profit does not benefit the locals), a couple of community-run campsites, a couple of shops in the village that sell a few food items to desparate campers like us, and, most importantly, a soccer pitch (actually, a patch of uneven ground of dirt and grass clumps with goals on either end, and without lines) that is crowded with all the village young men and boys in the evenings. The only other excitement in the village that we witnessed was the pool table behind one of the shops that seemed to attract most of the young men at the end of the day.

Khwai Development Trust sign (and soccer field)
Khwai village
Khwai village
Khwai village

Our campsite at Khwai was fairly typical, with some very nice large shade trees, fire ring, and brai, but no water tap. I suspect that elephants destroyed the water tap, and when things break here they generally stay broken. We did have the usual ablutions with hot shower and flush toilet, which is always appreciated. It was actually a nice campsite except for the loud music that could be heard coming from town on Saturday night. Here are a couple of shots of the campsite and Khwai River bridge at sunset:

Khwai River campsite
Khwai River campsite
Crossing the Khwai River bridge at sunset

The landscape in the vicinity of our campsite was a mixture of the Khwai River itself and the bordering marshy, grassy floodplains with scattered island clusters of trees and shrubs, giving way to upland woodlands dominated by the Mopane tree. The River itself is a narrow channel that regularly almost disappears in the marsh grasses as it meanders through the landscape. Remember, there is very little relief in this landscape – the Kalahari Desert – so it is often hard to discern where the river channel is in places. Also, we are here at a time when the Okavango Delta flood waters are just starting to arrive at Khwai, so the channel is just starting to flow and fill the pools and flood into the low-lying floodplain areas. A month from now there will be a lot more water in the river and floodplain. It is a beautiful landscape in its own unique way, but what makes it truly an exceptional place is the unique hydrologic regime of the Delta (i.e., flooding during the dry season):

Khwai River
Khwai River floodplain grasslands bordering Mopane woodlands
Mopane woodland with elephant-cropped trees

The composite video below is on the long side again because of some exciting encounters with elphants (again), lions and spotted hyenas (plus a couple of other sitings for good measure). Hope you enjoy this, because we sure did!

Moremi Khwai River composite video (22 minutes)

Next stop, Chobe National Park and the remote Savuti region. See you there!

Photo Gallery:

Wattled crane
Little bee-eater
Burchell’s (Plain’s) Zebra
Hippopotumus

11 thoughts on “June 16-17: On to Khwai River”

  1. Nice to see you are all still going strong. I think I would have had an accident myself with the elephant that close. Again, great videos and pictures. You all seem to be enjoying yourselves and some napping each day. Love it. Joan

  2. I’m really enjoying all your posts! Thanks for sharing your travels-what wonderful adventures! I’m doubly grateful because I will not be traveling to Kenya this summer like I planned. It’s great to see you and Nancy out there enjoying the wild places. Sending hugs to you both! Sandy

    1. Hey Sandy, nice to hear from you and to know that you are following my/our journey. Having a great time as you no doubt can tell from the posts. Sorry you won’t make it to Kenya this year – bummer. Perhaps next. Cheers.

  3. Incredible footage /eye contact
    with elephant in campsite while you were in vehicle. Also found it amusing your description of hippos tail acting as a “ whirlygig to spread the material all around like a helicopter. “
    something like that.

    1. Hey sis, yes the elphants in the campsites have been awesome and wait until you see the next one!!!! Hippos are great fun to watch with their antics, although we still haven’t figured out why they whirlygig their feces around. Let me know if you have an theory. Love ya.

  4. What outstanding photos, videos and blog! Thank you for sharing your amazing experience with those of us who are living vicariously through you!

  5. Once again, I appreciate you keeping up with your list of bird sightings, Kevin. I am having a great time looking up the birds in my field guides and seeing their sketches. It is also fun for me to track which species might be new for you. Of your 31 additions to the list since your previous blog, 8 or 9 appear to be new at least to our shared trips. The one species that needs clarification to me is the “black-eyed bulbul” #186. I cannot find that in either guide book. Could you mean “Common bulbul”?

    Regardless, the still pictures, videos, and lists bring back fond memories and allows me to really enjoy your adventure personally. Thanks for keeping us posted.

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